As beautiful as the city is, traveling there as a female was very difficult and something I want to prepare you for.

The constant harassment overrides any positives that the city offers. If you’re traveling with a male, you might have a completely different experience. The small restaurant which we chose to return to two days in a row ended up being the best part of our stay because of the friendly staff. Our hostel owners also spent some time with us socializing at night which made things better. We did hit a couple of landmarks and I’m glad we did the walking tour to get to know the city at least a little. However, I would be lying if I told you that I gave the city my normal hyper-curiosity level.

Even with a modest outfit, while walking in the street, the men endlessly harassed my best friend and I. Women are visibly segregated from males in public places in terms of socializing. It could be emotionally exhausting and discouraging for further travels within the country.

Talking to fellow travelers at the hostel, women traveling solo or with other women had similar stories to mine. Those accompanied by men had the exact opposite experience. Even with all that said, it is still a very beautiful and historic city but it’s good to be aware of what it is actually like and prepare ahead. 

Now if Fes is on your list of cities you’d like to visit, I wouldn’t let my personal experience deter you from that plan. I only hope to prepare you for what you might experience. Below you will find some logistics to seeing the city as well as some landmarks worth your time.

Some Fes Logistics

Suggested length of stay

Two days will be plenty here to explore some historical sites, have some good food and enjoy your hotel. For many travelers, this is a pass-through city and only a handful end up staying long-term.

Size & Transport of Fes

Fes to Marrakech distance is about 6 hours driving so adding it in between cities isn’t a bad idea. I took a Merzouga tour from Marrakech but you can also do it in the opposite direction, a desert tour from Fes toward Marrakesh. The city is smaller than Marrakech but is still somewhat large. You will have to walk around the Medina since there are no cars within the walls. It is a true maze so pre-download a maps.me or hire a guide through your hostel/hotel when you get there.

A standard meter taxi will take you anywhere outside of the Medina but please demand the meter to be turned on. Always always ask for the price ahead as well. Within the medina, there are no cars so prepare to walk. As mentioned above, it is a complete maze so a map is absolutely necessary.

Sightseeing

To start, I would highly recommend getting a guided walking tour here to appreciate history. It will come in handy to get around the maze of the Medina and avoid being harassed as a woman. Additionally, it’s hard to navigate the medina alone.

I bought the guided walking tour from the hostel I stayed at, Riad Verus, a very popular choice among travelers. An older gentleman walked us around but yet again, I found myself lured into many shops and given the same sales pitch that we heard along the road to Merzouga (see post here).

Although I learned a ton from this gentleman and he was one of the nicest humans I met on the trip, the “shopping” component of the walking tour was a little too much.

People & Safety in Morocco

I met one of the friendliest people inside the restaurants or the hotels. However, most of the men in the streets were annoying with the amount of “marry, kiss me” comments that a female will experience if you’re traveling without a male companion. Women will stare you down too if you’re walking in the street alone.

It is generally a safe town but it is known for petty crime if you’re not careful and posing yourself as a target. I was afraid to leave the hostel after dark. The hostel staff also warned us not to walk alone as two females past a certain hour.

For most of the Fes stay, at each step, men followed me and my roommate and asked us constant questions. I hate the feeling of not being able to trust people and mostly seeing the bad side of the population. I’m aware that a couple of bad apples shouldn’t ruin your view of the city but unfortunately, you can’t help feeling a certain way. I know that not everyone in Fes is disrespectful but unfortunately, my experience there was negative.

Food in Fes

There are many eating options in the city. If you’re feeling adventurous, try eating at the souks. My favorite place was a small restaurant with a charming inside and cozy rooftop terrace called Mezzanine. The staff there was very friendly, and even included us in a co-worker’s birthday party. After having a not-so-great start to Fes, this small act gave me a nice change of mood.

The strangest place I came across was a restaurant called British Saloon. It was an outdoor place with cowboy yet British-themed decor. The staff was nice, the beer was cold and the food was “western.”

Hotels

Hotels here are abundant at different price ranges but generally one can afford “luxury” even at smaller budgets. The various Riads throughout the city offer beautiful accommodations at very low prices.

Hostels are great as you will meet many fellow travelers too. I stayed at Riad Verus, a very known hostel in the city. I loved it and got to spend time with the owner and other travelers talking about life.

Fes Sightseeing Spots Worth Your Time

Fes is not an easy city to travel through. I personally didn’t have the best experience but I wouldn’t my problems stop you from visiting. Please be prepared for your experience there and hopefully, you’ll have a better time than I did. Below I outline some awesome things I saw there and the expectation you should have of each.

Fes El Bali

This iconic walled medina is a UNESCO Heritage Site in Fes. The streets within it are a true maze and you will not find any cars in there either. It is full of shops, homes, restaurants, and hotels. Despite it being a maze, I found it to be very clean and organized. It seems like the locals truly mastered the trash system. There are a couple of notable gates with the Blue being most recognizable. Be very careful when exploring as the area is known for pickpockets.  

Souks

The medina is full of souks or little shops. The shopping experience here is a little less aggressive compared to Marrakech. I personally found the shop owners a little less pushy compared to Marrakech’s souks. I purchased a lot of jewelry here and I would recommend this as an awesome souvenir. They don’t take up a lot of room in your luggage and if you’re shopping for your friends, they will love the unique designs. If you’re continuing your travels, and don’t want to carry large items for extended periods of time, I always go for some silver rings or necklaces. Negotiate good silver prices too but know what to expect to pay. Jewelry can also become a great conversation starter down the road. People always admire a unique ring and especially one that comes with an awesome travel story. 

Tanneries

This is where they prepare and dye the leather. There are numerous tanneries in the old part of Fes. They smell really bad but they’re beautiful and something like you probably have never seen before. Although I did not purchase any leather goods, I was happy to see the tannery from the roof of the shop. You will most likely get some mint leaves to help with the smell from the shop owner. 

Place Boujloud

Place Boujloud, also known as Place El-Hedim, is a large square located in the heart of Fes, Morocco. The square is named after the famous blue-tiled gate (Bab Boujloud) that stands at one end of the square. Place Boujloud is a popular gathering place for locals and tourists alike, and is surrounded by a variety of shops, restaurants, and other attractions.

One of the most notable landmarks on Place Boujloud is the Dar el Magana, a historic building that once served as a mint and now houses a museum. Visitors to the museum can see a variety of coins, medals, and other artifacts related to the history of Moroccan currency. The square is also home to the Grand Mosque, a beautiful building with intricate architectural details and a large minaret.

In addition to its historical and cultural significance, Place Boujloud is also a great place to shop and eat. The square is surrounded by a number of stalls and shops selling everything from traditional Moroccan crafts and textiles to modern clothing and accessories. There are also several restaurants and cafes in the area, offering a range of local and international cuisine.

Marinid Tombs

The Marinid Tombs are a group of funerary monuments located in Fes and named after the Marinid dynasty, a line of Berber rulers. The tombs are located on a hill overlooking the city and are considered one of the most important historical sites around.

The Tombs consist of a series of mausoleums and graves, many of which are decorated with intricate carvings and ornamentation. Visitors to the Marinid Tombs can explore them, as well as take in the stunning views of the city from the hilltop location. The tombs are open to the public and are a popular destination for tourists and history buffs.

In addition to the tombs themselves, the surrounding area is also worth exploring. The hill is home to a number of small gardens and parks, which offer a tranquil respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are also several small cafes and restaurants in the area, where you can relax and enjoy the views while trying some traditional Moroccan food.

It is only a short taxi ride away unless you’re up for the hike up. Although I stayed a little into the dark right after the sunset, I would not recommend the same. 

The Bou Inania Medersa in Fes

This is a beautiful religious building in the city that can be entered by non-Muslim people. In the past, this building was a school. Now it can be visited for its amazing architecture and vibrant colors. I would highly suggest making a stop here to admire the building and learn more about its history. 

It is considered one of the most beautiful and well-preserved madrasas in Morocco, and is a popular tourist attraction. It was built in the traditional Moroccan style, with intricate geometric patterns and ornate carvings covering the walls and doors. The madrasa is divided into a series of courtyards and halls, each with its own unique architectural features.

The Bou Inania Madrasa was not only a place of learning but also served as a mosque and a center of community life. It was an important hub of intellectual and religious activity in medieval Fes, and is still an important cultural and educational institution today. The madrasa is open to the public, and guided tours are available.

The Kairaouine Mosque

The Kairaouine Mosque, also known as the Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin, is a historic mosque located in the city of Fes, Morocco. It is one of the oldest and most important mosques in Morocco and is considered a key cultural and religious center in the country.

The Kairaouine Mosque was founded in the 9th century by a woman named Fatima al-Fihri, who was the daughter of a wealthy merchant. The mosque was originally built as a small prayer hall, but over the centuries it has been expanded and renovated several times. Today, it is a large complex with a series of courtyards, halls, and other buildings.

In addition to its religious and cultural importance, the Kairaouine Mosque is also home to one of the oldest universities in the world, the University of al-Qarawiyyin. The university was founded in the 9th century and has a long history of intellectual and scholarly achievement.

Should you visit Fes?

I personally would not visit Fes again but as mentioned above, I know I would have a different experience if I traveled with a male. I went into the country with a very naive mindset wanting to give the city the benefit of the doubt. I quickly realized that other travelers who talked about how difficult travel there was were completely right.

Favorite memory? Despite the challenges, it wasn’t all that bad. In Fes is where I fell into the blanket/rug scam… why? I don’t know. It seemed like a good idea at the moment. Now I own a $100 Moroccan “hand-woven” blanket that lays on my bed to this day. Every time I took at it, I now smile at my stupidity. I low-key love it.

FREE Downloadable Itinerary for your stay

Despite my not-so-hot experience in Fes, if you’re planning to visit this city, please read the other two posts below. Remember that more difficult places simply require more research and hopefully your personal experience will be a lot easier than mine!

Two Days in Fes

Two days is a more feasible and less rushed version of your Fes stay. If you have extra time on the road, this should be a good option for you. You will get to see the major sights of the city as well as new activities on day two. I recommend splurging a little on accommodation and a meal as luxury is more affordable for a common traveler here.

Here is a map for your Morocco travels:

Did you have a similar or totally different experience in Fes? Let me know in the comments below. I would love to hear how to make other people’s travels easier!

More Morocco Itineraries

Merzouga Tour: What does a Sahara tour really look like?

Sand dunes, dry heat, camels, bright stars, the sound of the drums around the bonfire … Sounds like something out of a dream, doesn’t it? You’ll certainly find that one of the Morocco desert tours… well, sort of. Before you get to the actual desert, let me prepare you for what your journey will probably…

Continue Reading Merzouga Tour: What does a Sahara tour really look like?

Traveling to Marrakech: An honest guide to visiting this chaotic city of Morocco

Oh, Marrakech, where do I even begin? Maybe too naively, I’ve always romanticized the busy souks, dry heat, tambourine music, and rich Moroccan food. Marrakech seemed like the perfect place to visit during an impromptu trip. Little did I know, it would end completely different than what I imagined. I ended up there more or…

Continue Reading Traveling to Marrakech: An honest guide to visiting this chaotic city of Morocco

Merzouga is a small village in the Sahara Desert that serves as a base for most Moroccan Sahara tours. It’s located 9 hours away from Marrakesh and 7 hours from Fes. A popular Marrakech to Fes desert tour includes a drive through the Moroccan mountains, a camel ride into the Sahara with an overnight stay, and a drop-off in Fes. The opposite also includes 3 days tour from Fes.

The guide below describes the route you’ll be taking on an organized tour in 3 days from Marrakech to Merzouga. It’s my personal honest opinion preparing you for what to expect if you choose to see the Sahara desert in this way. I went blindly into this experience and I wish I was a little more prepared. My goal is to prevent you from feeling lost or confused or better yet scammed into this tour.

Marrakech desert tours 3 days – A Merzouga standard experience

Staying in Marrakech, you will have a lot of options for organized tours into the Sahara desert. It is quite a long trip and normally done over the course of two to three days. A standard 3 days tour from Marrakech to Merzouga includes the following: an early morning pick up at your hotel, a drive through the mountains, reaching the desert on the afternoon of day 2, sleeping in a tent there and then continuing the trip to Fes or returning to Marrakech on the morning of day 3. Your starting point can vary, but this is by far the most popular route. If you’re paying around $80-$100 per person for 3 days, all the companies are pretty much comparable. If you’re looking for a more “luxurious” experience, you will get a smaller group and better sleep accommodations.  

Day 1

Morning start: Atlas Mountains & Ksar Ait Ben-Haddou

The tour will start with a pick-up at your hotel or close by very early in the morning. Usually, your hostel/hotel will arrange this and you won’t have to worry too much about the pickup location. Ideally, it will be in a small passenger van with 6-10 others because anything above that will not be a pleasant experience.

A couple of hours in, right outside Marrakesh, the first stop will be at a small cafe/gift shop somewhere in the Atlas Mountains. The road is stunning and you do get to take some pictures at this stop. If you’re sensitive to the altitude, you will briefly feel how high up you are. What sucks though is that, you will not get any free time to explore the mountains alone.

The next stop will be Ksar of Ait Ben-Haddou, a traditional old town/village and the iconic location of many Hollywood films like Gladiator. You will have a good amount of time to explore it. Although it’s pretty impressive, at this point, some random guide will hop on your bus and tour you around the site. You will be asked for some optional entrance fee/donation here but although they say it’s optional you will be pressured to pay it.

I say get used to it because this is the start of an endless sales pitch you will experience on this trip. When your stop is over, the guide will ask for a tip. Then again, you will get a new guide at each stop expecting you to tip over and over. Although you pay for the trip, there are many additional fees that you can’t escape. I want to prepare you for this right off the start because I remember feeling confused and pressured to constantly tip each person. Little by little, it started taking the “magic” away from the Sahara tour.

Afternoon: Ouarzazate

The next stop will be Ouarzazate which is known for the big movie studios and stunning Oasis in the middle of the dusty mountains. You’ll have lunch here which you will have to pay for and some new guide will join you here.

I would have liked to explore this area a little more but if you’re taking the pre-planned trip, you will not have time to explore. I would recommend getting a pashmina shawl here if you didn’t get one earlier. It will cost you $2 dollars compared to the $20 they will try to charge you further down. You will need it for the camel ride.

Evening: Dades Gorge

For your evening itinerary, you will be staying at Dades Gorge. You’ll take the windy roads along a natural carved gorge by the river. The color contrast between the vibrant green vegetation and dry copper rocks makes it a one-of-a-kind place. Again, you mostly just pass through it, there is one short stop here that allows for some great shots.

We got dropped off at some random hotel in a “hotel” area. Our hosts were very nice, they prepared an amazing traditional dinner. Although the accommodations were basic and comparable to a hostel setting, you had everything you need for the night. We actually got to explore the surroundings here and walk around small paths with super cool blue-ish rocks. After dinner, we had tea on the rooftop with our hosts as they played drums and sang for us. It was really nice and after a long day of traveling, it was the perfect way to relax. We got to bond and dance with other travelers listening to awesome Moroccan music. 

Day 2

Morning: Berber Village & Todra Gorge

Your day will start early with breakfast at the hotel and then you’ll head over to Tinghir. A new guide will show you the local farm and small town. This is a long history lesson. You will be taken to a shop where the locals will try to sell you “handmade” berber rugs. Remember, every bus tour stops here and a wife and a husband duo will do their pitch. I almost forgot the amazing prior experience of walking through the farm and the town after this rug scam. I wanted to get out of there quick but they force you to sit through a demonstration. Any slight interest in the rug will make you a target so politely decline and save your shopping for the souks. 

After the first stop, you’ll head to the Todra Gorge. We got about 30 minutes to explore it. It is impressive, the small river flowing down between the two giant mountains is beautiful. This stop has beggars and pickpockets as it is a prime tourist spot but it is certainly worth the pause. There was a lunch stop after and then, at last, we headed toward the desert, a long drive ahead. 

Afternoon: THE PART YOU’VE BEEN WAITING FOR SINCE THE START OF THIS POST

Driving away from the towns, you start to feel the heat like never before. Everything gets drier at each stop and if you (foolishly) visit in July as I did, it is hard to breathe at certain times. The scenery changes drastically. At first, it’s flat, rocky, and dry, it gets windy and dusty, and then you reach a small little camp on the edge of the desert. This is where the camels will get you from.

Now, this was sort of a sad reality check. The camels are visibly overworked, tired, and thirsty. I always wanted to experience riding a camel in the middle of the desert. After seeing the reality of it, I was disappointed and felt almost guilty for feeding into it. I think everyone should be aware that it’s not all peaches and cream as you might’ve imagined (including myself). 

The journey into the desert

So you finally get on your camel with the nice headscarf that will protect you from the sand. For about an hour, you single-file ride it to the camp with your fellow travelers. You don’t go that far into the desert though, don’t expect a lengthy ride. The camp is composed of tents with rugs and a simple mattress for sleeping accommodations. If you’re single, you’ll be sleeping in a same-sex tent. If you’re a couple, they will put you with the other couples. This is done for religious reasons as single men cannot stay in the same rooms as single women.

The camp is surreal. You explore the endless sand dunes or you can rent some additional equipment like a sandboard or quad. After dinner with everyone, you end the night with a bonfire and singing together. Then it hits that your bare feet are standing on the Sahara sand.

This is the part that makes everything else worth it. It is truly, truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It does look like in the movies and if you want, you can even sleep under the stars. I woke up early to watch the sunrise on the dunes. It was great but not the regular sunrise that you’re used to. It’s more monochrome and more “dim.” Still worth waking up at 5 am or in some cases, even earlier.

After breakfast, you’ll hit the road either back to Marrakech, or to another city that you prearranged your transfer for. I continued onto Fes. It was a brutal 6 hours commute in a small jeep with 5 other people. It got me from point A to point B without having to worry about myself. 

Organized Sahara 3-day Tour Summary

My actual favorite part of this excursion was meeting fellow travelers and experiencing this once-in-a-lifetime moment with them. Although we probably won’t see each other again, we shared that moment together and that was special. There is nothing like a Moroccan bonfire, with strangers who bond with your soul in the middle of the desert.

Pros of taking an organized trip: 

• You don’t have to worry about renting a car, planning the route, parking safety, and stays which are all a challenge within themselves in Morocco. They pick you up from the hotel and drop you off, saving you from some potential logistical hiccups. 
• If you’re continuing your journey through Morocco, this is basically a 3 days tour from Marrakech to Fes.
• Meeting new people that you will bond with, especially if you’re traveling solo. If you’re in the middle of the Sahara desert, chances are you have similar mindsets.
• Decent explanations by the guides, multiple languages are covered too. It was impressive how fluent these guides were in at least 4 languages. 
• No negotiating for prices at stops. Morocco is the land of haggling and getting ripped off with every purchase being with a group, gave me peace of mind.
• Not getting lost in the desert. That thing is huge and it all looks the same. 

Cons of taking an organized trip: : 

• There are very few moments without a sales pitch. Every stop is orchestrated around buying something. It’s certainly ok to purchase if you’re interested. However, if you’re a backpacker on a tight budget like me, you shouldn’t have to feel bad 7 times a day turning down yet another product. 
• Constant guide tipping. You get a new guide at each stop and each guide expects a tip. They don’t necessarily stress this when you purchase an “all-inclusive desert excursion.” There were people in my group that were close to running out of money because of all the unexpected spending. Even though they say it’s optional when you’re in a small group and the guide walks up to you, you almost have no choice but to tip. And although at the end of the day $5 isn’t a large sum of money for a traveler that can afford these kinds of trips, it really ends up adding up in the end. I also want to stress that I’m all for tourism that helps the local community, especially if it’s the only source of income for them. However, there is a thin line between helping the area and constantly feeling taken advantage of because you’re a tourist. To compare, see my similar Bolivia excursion post, where not once did I feel like I’m being milked for my money (not that I have that much, to begin with). Bolivia showed me that it is possible to run a highly repetitive and organized trip without all the selling that made me want to vomit at the end of my Sahara experience. 
• Almost no flexibility. As previously mentioned, each stop is mostly curated for you to buy something, not necessarily to enjoy the surroundings. There is very little free time to explore or to enjoy anything outside the itinerary. This could be a pro to some who don’t like putting thought into the planning part but to my gypsy soul, it was a little too restrictive. 

Wish I’d known this list: 

• You can’t bring your full backpack to the desert tent (it will stay on your transport bus), only a select few items. I recommend grabbing a small bag/backpack to transfer a couple of essentials with you: loose clothing: tank top, linen pants, t-shirt, headscarf, phone/camera, sunnies, portable toothbrush, hairbrush, wet wipes, hand sanitizer. Less is more and everyone is wearing the same clothes for the day that you’re away. You’ll be glad you didn’t drag the extras since you’re sharing the space with 6 others. 
• There is almost no alcohol on this trip. You might be able to get a small beer at a lunch stop. If you’re looking to have some wine under the stars, you won’t be able to purchase it along the way.
• The camel ride is not as ethical as it should be. There is also no morning camel ride as advertised, only sunset, probably better for the camels too. The camels are tired to the point that it’s sad at certain moments.  
• Children guide your camels into the desert. Growing up on a farm, I helped out my family too numerous times, also at a very young age. I could understand both sides of this argument. However, this gig does not seem like a family-run business. Is there a solution to what appears as a harmless job of walking a camel? Not sure. Then you have to ask yourself, is anyone even asking me to solve doesn’t appear to be a problem there?

Despite its difficulties, this excursion was amazing. Once you reach the Sahara, you forget all the bad stuff for a little. I wish I had read a little more about what to expect on the trip. I hope I prepared you well for what’s ahead.

If you have additional questions/comments, feel free to comment below.

Here is a map for your Moroccan adventures:

More Morocco Guides:

The realistic guide to visiting Fes as a female traveler

Fes is more traditional and less chaotic compared to its popular friend Marrakech. There are a handful of interesting things to do in Fes, but after the first day there, I sort of gave up on exploring. Not all travel is as dreamy as Instagram displays it to be. After a week of being constantly…

Continue Reading The realistic guide to visiting Fes as a female traveler

Traveling to Marrakech: An honest guide to visiting this chaotic city of Morocco

Oh, Marrakech, where do I even begin? Maybe too naively, I’ve always romanticized the busy souks, dry heat, tambourine music, and rich Moroccan food. Marrakech seemed like the perfect place to visit during an impromptu trip. Little did I know, it would end completely different than what I imagined. I ended up there more or…

Continue Reading Traveling to Marrakech: An honest guide to visiting this chaotic city of Morocco

And more from Perfect Day Somewhere

First Timers Guide to Tomorrowland – The Best Music Festival in the World

I vividly remember the first time I saw a Tomorrowland after-movie. That day, I knew that one day I had to experience this festival for myself. I was lucky enough to attend Tomorrowland in 2023 and it was by far one of the most amazing festivals of my life. If you’re thinking about going in…

Continue Reading First Timers Guide to Tomorrowland – The Best Music Festival in the World

10 Steps For How To Plan The Most Epic Trip!

It’s not a secret that travel is back. After two years of restrictions, quarantines, and uncertainty, people are desperate to travel. Social media isn’t helping either with all the travel FOMO. I’m sure you saw at least a couple of your friends flaunting their current vacation on your feed today. With the current influx of…

Continue Reading 10 Steps For How To Plan The Most Epic Trip!

One Week in Dominican Republic Itinerary – No Resorts!

The Dominican Republic is often associated with its stunning and dreamy beachfront resort vacations. I mean who wouldn’t want to lay under a palm tree and be served cold beers all day? But as convenient and beautiful as these resorts can be, I personally do not think you can experience a place the same way…

Continue Reading One Week in Dominican Republic Itinerary – No Resorts!

An amazing week in Spain: Madrid, Seville and Barcelona Itinerary

You know the cliche: a person studies abroad in college, discovers their love for traveling, and never stops talking about how good the croquetas were in Barthelona? Well, I hate love to admit that person is me. Since the time I studied abroad in 2012 in Salamanca, Spain, I returned to Spain three more times…

Continue Reading An amazing week in Spain: Madrid, Seville and Barcelona Itinerary

Full Guide and Things To Do in Madeira: A 5-Day Itinerary for Off-Season Travel

One of the first catchphrases you’ll notice when you google anything about traveling to Madeira is how often it’s described as the “Hawaii of Europe” promising year-round spring weather. When deciding on my annual Thanksgiving travels, I figured it would be the ideal off-season destination with fewer crowds, yet still pleasant temperatures. Most travel blogs…

Continue Reading Full Guide and Things To Do in Madeira: A 5-Day Itinerary for Off-Season Travel

An Honest Montauk Travel Guide: A 2-Day Off-Season Itinerary

Living in New Jersey, the Hamptons are your rich cousin that you tend to hate on but are also low-key jealous of. Montauk was on my local bucket list but with prices reaching over $600 a night in season, it had to be scoped out earlier at half the cost. I couldn’t digest the thought…

Continue Reading An Honest Montauk Travel Guide: A 2-Day Off-Season Itinerary

I ended up there more or less spontaneously after booking a last-minute trip to Europe. While in Bordeaux, I was looking for the cheapest flights somewhere else and ended up flying to Morocco for a whole $50. Traveling to Marrakech was always on my bucket list so I said f*ck it.

Overall, I had a good time there and I would recommend visiting it. While each experience isn’t identical, you should be prepared for what to expect there, especially as a female traveler. In my guide, I’ll explain the good, bad and annoying but most importantly, I’ll give you well-planned itineraries to download for your 1, 2, or 3-day travels.

Let’s get to the logistics

Suggested length of stay

Since there is a good chunk of things to do in the city, ideally, you’d need a minimum of 3 days to spend there. You’ll soak in the atmosphere of Marrakech and see the major highlights of the city. If you’re planning to see the Sahara desert, add 3 more days to the itinerary too.

There are many sights to fill your days with activities but part of the experience is also getting used to the chaos of this place. As beautiful as the city is, it can also be exhausting. Most people can’t handle it for a while and move to other parts of Morocco like the coast or Sahara desert. Overall, I recommend a minimum of 3 days in Marrakech but ideally around 5 if possible.

Layout of Marrakech

There are two main areas, Old Medina and New Town. The medina is very traditional. You will need to show major modesty if you’re a woman but more on the dress code later on in the guide. The medina is where you will find the famous town square Jemaa el-Fna with all the souks. You need to be more cautious in terms of getting scammed because let’s be honest, the souks are not as romantic as you think.

The new town is completely modern and gives off a totally different vibe with a more open mindset. There are also a lot more modern restaurants offering alcohol, music, and entertainment. It’s honestly crazy how different it is compared to Medina.

I personally stayed in the medina and I liked it. If I had to do it all over again I would probably choose it too. It was a very different experience but I’m happy I got a glimpse into a more traditional life. Although it wasn’t the easiest place to stay, the new town was familiar and comfortable. Old town pushed my limits and showed me another culture more up close. And that’s the purpose of travel, isn’t it? 🙂

Transport

After the cheap and annoying Ryanair Marrakech flight, I was blown away by how nice the airport was. It was super modern and put my local Newark Airport to shame. To get to the main part of the city or the medina, do not accept the first taxi that offers you a ride into town. Usually the hotel you stay in offers to pick you up at a decent price (should be around $15) so I would just take that rather than risking it especially if you’re traveling alone. 

Marrakech is a very big city with a very confusing layout. The roads do not follow any patterns, especially in the medina. You can walk all of the medina and a lot of the streets will not be car accessible. If you go outside, your best bet is a meter taxi. Please INSIST that they turn on their meter because if they see that you’re a tourist, a lot of the taxis will try to scam you. This is a given.

I haven’t used the buses as they are old, filled with people and don’t have defined routes but if you can navigate that, I admire you!

People of Morocco

Generally, the people are very nice. Hospitality is definitely a huge part of their culture and it shows. Our hosts at the hostel were friendly, welcoming and helped us navigate the city. However being outside the hostel, was a different story. The shop owners, especially in the older parts of town were pushy, sometimes even aggressive. As a woman, you will most likely get cat-called multiple times per day. If you’re accompanied by a man, you probably won’t. I talked to many travelers and all had that experience so I don’t think it was something that I encountered alone.

Inside the restaurants, I had positive experiences and I was able to talk to some friendly locals. My advice is to simply be cautious. Gauge the situation: is this person just being friendly or are they asking me to follow them somewhere or trying to convince me to buy something? Be open-minded, don’t assume everyone is out to get you but also assess what context you’re in. 

Is Marrakech safe?

Overall, I would describe a walk in the medina as annoying, not dangerous. I was annoyed about the number of times I was approached by men. I traveled with my best friend and two girls walking alone in the street, got us a lot of unsolicited comments. Although we tried to cover up, it was July and there is only so much you can do at 110 degrees Fahrenheit. But remember to be respectful of the local culture, don’t wear shorts or tank tops or you will be stared at. At the end of the day, you chose a more conservative place to visit, so follow the local culture. 

Warning: Lots of scammers 

Sorry, not sorry but a lot of Morocco is full of scammers. People are going to appear overly friendly so be smart. They most likely just want to sell you things. In my experience, most people are not dangerous but they do want to make a profit off of you if you’re a tourist. If they seem too friendly for a stranger there could be an agenda there. I’m all for making money off of tourism, but there is a line a lot of people in Morocco cross. You get pushed into buying things, people deceive you and the haggling gets annoying.

This post covers the most common scams very well. I can vouch for the accuracy because I myself have experienced a lot of them from that list. As beautiful as the country is, these experiences forever tainted my view of Morocco and for that reason alone, I will warn you over and over about your expectations.

Food in Morocco

Now something positive 🙂

Moroccan food is definitely outside of my normal taste palette but I had a really good time trying new dishes and exploring this cuisine. I took the approach of being adventurous. I recommend that you try something new. If you do not know what to get, ask the locals what they like or ask the waiter for what the restaurant is known for, and eat away. Some popular dishes include couscous, tajine (in many many forms), cold salads, snail soups, well-known harira, or even sheep head or brains. There are many cool posts on this topic, see some here or here or here. Note the heavy presence of herbs. What I also noticed is that all the food I had was very, very fresh. 

In terms of drinking, the locals will feed you “berber whiskey” or mint tea, which was one of my favorite ways to start the day or get a little afternoon kick. Everyone has tea together and it’s a beautiful way to bond with others. Note to my fellow alcohol connoisseurs, Marrakech Medina is mostly a conservative muslin environment so you won’t find bars in the old town and if you do, you probably shouldn’t be in there.

Some restaurants will serve you alcohol, however, but they’re hard to come across. If you want a party scene, the new town has a lot of interesting and modern places. I even did a little wine tasting at the local bar. At the higher-end restaurants, you will get live music, belly dancing shows, and other entertainment. Might be worth the overpriced food you’ll be paying for.  

What to wear in Marrakech

The Moroccan dress code can be pretty conservative for a Westerner female. Traveling to Marrakech, I did my reason and assumed I was pretty prepared for a respectful dress code. I wore loose dresses that covered my shoulders and knees along with shawls in the medina. Traveling with my best friend, she followed a similar dress code. Unfortunately, we both experienced unwanted comments and even scream from older men shaming us. I noticed that majority of the females that traveled with other men were not approached but those traveling alone were a constant target. Those traveling with men were able to get away with a less restrictive dress code too.

As a sign of respect, especially if you visit the medina, these are my personal recommendations for women:

• No deep v-neck cuts
• No shorts/skirts above the knee
• Covered shoulders
• Nothing that calls major attention to yourself

Where to stay in Marrakech

I am a huge fan of hostels. Despite what some think of them, in my opinion, they’re an amazing place to stay in a new country. They often organize many activities and tours but the best part is that you can meet a lot of new people from all over the world. The one I stayed in (Rouge Hostel) was located in the heart of the medina. They picked us up from the airport and the owners made sure we were safe. Since Morocco is an overall cheap country, you can get a boujee hotel for really cheap. If that’s the route you choose, make sure to check the reviews to get an overall vibe of what the hostel will be like. Note that in the majority of the country, men and women need to stay in separate areas of shared spaces.

If hostels aren’t your thing, honestly, your options are endless here since it is a fairly cheap country. If you want something more resort-like, outside the city you can find some amazing options at great prices. I would personally love to stay in one next time I visit to get a different travel perspective of the city.

Sightseeing

The best part of Marrakech is the number of places you can visit. That is my opinion will give you the perfect day in Marrakech you’ve been looking for. My absolute favorite part was the architecture which is stunning and very different from what I know. If you don’t feel comfortable exploring the medina on your own, walking tours are always an amazing option. Even though it’s free, you always tip in the end ($5-10) per person depending on how good the tour was. There are many companies, so I usually just pick one based on reviews because they’re all comparable.

Perfect Things To Do In Marrakech

Marrakech is one of those cities that you can’t get enough of in terms of its art and things to see. Even though it can be quite annoying and difficult to visit as a female traveler, it certainly doesn’t disappoint in the amount of beauty it has. Below I list the places I really enjoyed but if you want to download an itinerary for your stay, just stroll down to the end 🙂

Jemaa El Fna Square

The main square of Marrakech and the most massive town square I have ever seen in my life. It is overwhelming, loud, weird yet strangely fascinating. There are snakes, monkeys, pushy vendors, and massive amounts of people. I strongly suggest coming to see it during the day and returning to see it at night. It is pure sensory overload.

I cannot stress this enough: vendors will be extremely pushy trying to sell you things, tell you that they will give you something for free or they will show you something interesting a couple of streets away. Be firm and say no and they will go away. I had a hard time letting my guard down as I lost track of the number of times someone tried to sell me something. With a firm no, I was able to tune out the annoyances as I thoroughly explored this famous square.

Some advice for you:

• There are many balcony cafes all around the square that offer prime views at the cost of purchasing an overpriced soft drink. It’s honestly worth it.
• If you’d like to dig into the street food, all the carts sell comparable yet adventurous meals.
• There is a serious overabundance of juice stands. Get fresh orange (or any other fresh fruit) juice too, they’re super tasty.
• Ladies, don’t get a henna tattoo. They’re questionable and could harm your skin as the chemicals used in the square aren’t always of the best quality.
• There will be tons of kids chasing you asking for money, something I personally struggle with every time. I don’t have a good answer on how to deal with it.
• A random snake show will happen as you pass by or a monkey will show up on your shoulder.
• Just be smart. Don’t fall for the traps.

Souks in Marrakech

The souks are massive. Starting from the main square, they branch out into many different mazes. If you’re into shopping and finding unique items, this place is 100% a must for you. From textiles to leather goods, to spices, to trinkets, to ceramics, jewelry, shoes, clothes, furniture, name it, it’s there.

First things first. If you don’t like haggling (like myself) and getting easily persuaded into buying things, opt out for a store instead. Otherwise, remember to always haggle and never ever accept the first price. Usually, ⅓ to ¼ of the initial offer price is the real value. Do not feel bad about bargaining, it is part of the culture if done politely and with some fun added to it. Do not bargain if you don’t intend on buying either. It is considered rude. If you get invited for tea inside, you’re expected to buy something even if it is small. It is certainly ok to accept, but you should buy something out of respect.

Next, do not fall into the rug scam. They will try to sell you “handmade” rugs for $100. They’re most likely not handmade and you’ll end up with a $100 blanket like myself. I bought one, and it is a sweet blanket. It’s become a staple piece in my room to this day too.

Everyone will try to sell you argan oil. Do not follow people into little shops off the “main” street because you are simply asking to get ripped off. If you want to purchase a solid souvenir, I suggest jewelry like silver. I personally always like to add to my collection of rings from all over the world. My jewelry always becomes a nice reminder of the place I visited and it’s very easy to bring back home. People in hostels often notice my rings and they become good conversation starters about some adventure stories.

Jardin Majorelle

This is a famous museum and garden masterpiece of Yves Saint Laurent and his boyfriend Pierre Berge. Located in the new part of town, you will get to appreciate a different perspective of Marrakech. The blue and yellow colors dominate the place along with the beautiful plants and trees. Without a doubt, this is an instagrammable stop for those looking to get some awesome shots.

I found it relaxing and enjoyed exploring the grounds. It is better to see this on a sunny day as the sun will exaggerate all the colors. When visiting, expect to pay a small entrance fee and stand in a queue during peak times.

If you’ve been watching Inventing Anna on Netflix lately, these are the gardens Rachel keeps on insisting to visit 🙂

The Bahia Palace

This former palace of the Sultan, his wives, and numerous concubines was built not that long ago. Its amazing gardens are a must-visit if you’re in Marrakech. The architecture is simply stunning. I found myself endlessly fascinated with the wood art, different tile patterns, courtyards, and gardens. It is a true work of art. I would recommend getting a guide to fully appreciate this beauty if you’re into history.

Marrakech Museum

Although I do not see this place as advertised as other landmarks, I think this is a must-see if you enjoy Moorish architecture. The artwork on display is nice but I found myself lost in the beauty of the building itself. The open courtyards, intricate tilework, and word carvings never got boring. There are so many good photo ops inside but I strongly recommend taking a pause for at least 15 minutes and just soaking it all in. 

Koutoubia Mosque

Koutoubia is the most known and iconic mosque in the city. Similar to many other Mosques, if you’re not Muslim you cannot go inside. I admired the beautiful exterior and walked around the courtyard. It’s 900 years old and a big architectural inspiration for many other structures around the world. 

There is a garden across from it too that’s worth a stroll. It’s nice for people watching and I found it quite calm in comparison to the proximal main square. 

Ben Youssef Madrasa

This old college is now a historic iconic site and a famous place to visit in the city. If you’re a seeker of architectural gems, you’ll love this museum. It is full of history so if you’re into the nitty-gritty stories of things, this is the place to read up on or get a guide for. As of summer 2019 when I visited, it was still under renovation. It was supposed to reopen in the spring of 2020 but I’m sure the pandemic has slowed that down. Note, this is a popular place, so when visiting don’t expect a small crowd.

Unique ideas for things to do in Marrakech

• Although it is certainly not Cappadocia, a hot air ballon Marrakesh ride is certainly a unique experience. Viator’s average price is around $200 so while not cheap, I imagine it’s worth it.
• If you won’t be making your way towards Sahara, you can see a smaller desert closer to the city and take a tour quad biking in Marrakesh.
• I don’t know if gambling in another country is ever a good idea but many travelers enjoy visiting the Casino Marrakech. It has a beautiful exterior but I can’t speak for what happens inside.
• Hammam Spa is a frequent activity for the locals in Morocco but something most foreigners have never experienced before. The spas range from very traditional to very upscale.
• Menara Gardens are a sight a lot of tourists skip because it’s simply a viewpoint but if you have some extra time in town, check out this spot for some beautiful mountain backdrops.

Thoughts on Traveling to Marrakech

Would I return to Marrakech in my lifetime? To be honest and it almost hurts me to say, only if I were traveling there with a male companion. As beautiful as the country is, the experience of traveling there as a woman and the amount of harassment I dealt with left a bad taste in my mouth. Even with the amount of covering up, not drawing attention, and simply wanting to see the country, it was a rough trip. I would like to reiterate though that at no point did I feel unsafe, I simply felt constantly annoyed. But experiences like these are highly subjective and I don’t want to discourage you from visiting. Morocco has a lot of potential in tourism and I hope they understand the impact of treating travelers a certain way.

With that said, I hope you’re prepared enough to make a decision for yourself, and if you do indeed decide to travel, as promised, here are some awesome downable itineraries for your stay.

Marrakesh Itinerary: FREE Downloadable Guides for your stay

One Day In Marrakech

A single day in this city will be an overwhelming task but it is certainly doable. The city is simply chaotic, large, and certainly different compared to a western way of living. With this one-day Marrakech itinerary, prepare to be open-minded and resilient as some tasks may become difficult.

My one-day guide focuses on exploring the more traditional Medina in the morning and then heading over to the new city Gueliz for an afternoon change of scenery. This condensed version of Marrakech will give you two very different perspectives on it.

Two Days in Marrakech

Two days is a good option for those wanting to get a taste of this city and don’t have more time to spare. I say it’s enough to see the major highlights without the fear of missing too much. My two-day guide focuses on the old city for day one and the outskirts of town in addition to the new city for day two. With a fancy dinner and a show, this is the ideal tested guide for your two-day stay.

Three Days in Marrakech

Three days is a solid length of stay to experience what the city has to offer and see multiple sides of it. The first day focuses on thoroughly exploring the Old Medina, getting the most of the square, souks, and famous traditional architecture. Day two moves onto the outskirts of town and finally into the new town area. Since Morocco is a fairly inexpensive country, for day three, I suggest treating yourself to a spa experience, a hot air balloon ride as well as a nice dinner. For luxury activities like these, you will get a lot for your dollar’s worth!

Additionally, here is a map for a Morocco Trip: Marrakesh -> Merzouga -> Fes

Have you had a similar experience in Morocco? Do you have your favorite places not listed here that you think I should include? Let me know in the comments below.

More Morocco guides for you:

The realistic guide to visiting Fes as a female traveler

Fes is more traditional and less chaotic compared to its popular friend Marrakech. There are a handful of interesting things to do in Fes, but after the first day there, I sort of gave up on exploring. Not all travel is as dreamy as Instagram displays it to be. After a week of being constantly…

Continue Reading The realistic guide to visiting Fes as a female traveler

Merzouga Tour: What does a Sahara tour really look like?

Sand dunes, dry heat, camels, bright stars, the sound of the drums around the bonfire … Sounds like something out of a dream, doesn’t it? You’ll certainly find that one of the Morocco desert tours… well, sort of. Before you get to the actual desert, let me prepare you for what your journey will probably…

Continue Reading Merzouga Tour: What does a Sahara tour really look like?