The realistic guide to visiting Fes as a female traveler
Fes is more traditional and less chaotic compared to its popular friend Marrakech. There are a handful of interesting things to do in Fes, but after the first day there, I sort of gave up on exploring. Not all travel is as dreamy as Instagram displays it to be. After a week of being constantly cat-called and annoyed in Morocco and it only intensifying in Fes, my time in this city was mostly spent at the local tourist cafes and just relaxing at the hostel.
As beautiful as the city is, traveling there as a female was very difficult and something I want to prepare you for.
The constant harassment overrides any positives that the city offers. If you’re traveling with a male, you might have a completely different experience. The small restaurant which we chose to return to two days in a row ended up being the best part of our stay because of the friendly staff. Our hostel owners also spent some time with us socializing at night which made things better. We did hit a couple of landmarks and I’m glad we did the walking tour to get to know the city at least a little. However, I would be lying if I told you that I gave the city my normal hyper-curiosity level.
Even with a modest outfit, while walking in the street, the men endlessly harassed my best friend and I. Women are visibly segregated from males in public places in terms of socializing. It could be emotionally exhausting and discouraging for further travels within the country.
Talking to fellow travelers at the hostel, women traveling solo or with other women had similar stories to mine. Those accompanied by men had the exact opposite experience. Even with all that said, it is still a very beautiful and historic city but it’s good to be aware of what it is actually like and prepare ahead.
Now if Fes is on your list of cities you’d like to visit, I wouldn’t let my personal experience deter you from that plan. I only hope to prepare you for what you might experience. Below you will find some logistics to seeing the city as well as some landmarks worth your time.
Some Fes Logistics
Suggested length of stay
Two days will be plenty here to explore some historical sites, have some good food and enjoy your hotel. For many travelers, this is a pass-through city and only a handful end up staying long-term.
Size & Transport of Fes
Fes to Marrakech distance is about 6 hours driving so adding it in between cities isn’t a bad idea. I took a Merzouga tour from Marrakech but you can also do it in the opposite direction, a desert tour from Fes toward Marrakesh. The city is smaller than Marrakech but is still somewhat large. You will have to walk around the Medina since there are no cars within the walls. It is a true maze so pre-download a maps.me or hire a guide through your hostel/hotel when you get there.
A standard meter taxi will take you anywhere outside of the Medina but please demand the meter to be turned on. Always always ask for the price ahead as well. Within the medina, there are no cars so prepare to walk. As mentioned above, it is a complete maze so a map is absolutely necessary.
Sightseeing
To start, I would highly recommend getting a guided walking tour here to appreciate history. It will come in handy to get around the maze of the Medina and avoid being harassed as a woman. Additionally, it’s hard to navigate the medina alone.
I bought the guided walking tour from the hostel I stayed at, Riad Verus, a very popular choice among travelers. An older gentleman walked us around but yet again, I found myself lured into many shops and given the same sales pitch that we heard along the road to Merzouga (see post here).
Although I learned a ton from this gentleman and he was one of the nicest humans I met on the trip, the “shopping” component of the walking tour was a little too much.
People & Safety in Morocco
I met one of the friendliest people inside the restaurants or the hotels. However, most of the men in the streets were annoying with the amount of “marry, kiss me” comments that a female will experience if you’re traveling without a male companion. Women will stare you down too if you’re walking in the street alone.
It is generally a safe town but it is known for petty crime if you’re not careful and posing yourself as a target. I was afraid to leave the hostel after dark. The hostel staff also warned us not to walk alone as two females past a certain hour.
For most of the Fes stay, at each step, men followed me and my roommate and asked us constant questions. I hate the feeling of not being able to trust people and mostly seeing the bad side of the population. I’m aware that a couple of bad apples shouldn’t ruin your view of the city but unfortunately, you can’t help feeling a certain way. I know that not everyone in Fes is disrespectful but unfortunately, my experience there was negative.
Food in Fes
There are many eating options in the city. If you’re feeling adventurous, try eating at the souks. My favorite place was a small restaurant with a charming inside and cozy rooftop terrace called Mezzanine. The staff there was very friendly, and even included us in a co-worker’s birthday party. After having a not-so-great start to Fes, this small act gave me a nice change of mood.
The strangest place I came across was a restaurant called British Saloon. It was an outdoor place with cowboy yet British-themed decor. The staff was nice, the beer was cold and the food was “western.”
Hotels
Hotels here are abundant at different price ranges but generally one can afford “luxury” even at smaller budgets. The various Riads throughout the city offer beautiful accommodations at very low prices.
Hostels are great as you will meet many fellow travelers too. I stayed at Riad Verus, a very known hostel in the city. I loved it and got to spend time with the owner and other travelers talking about life.
Fes Sightseeing Spots Worth Your Time
Fes is not an easy city to travel through. I personally didn’t have the best experience but I wouldn’t my problems stop you from visiting. Please be prepared for your experience there and hopefully, you’ll have a better time than I did. Below I outline some awesome things I saw there and the expectation you should have of each.
Fes El Bali
This iconic walled medina is a UNESCO Heritage Site in Fes. The streets within it are a true maze and you will not find any cars in there either. It is full of shops, homes, restaurants, and hotels. Despite it being a maze, I found it to be very clean and organized. It seems like the locals truly mastered the trash system. There are a couple of notable gates with the Blue being most recognizable. Be very careful when exploring as the area is known for pickpockets.
Souks
The medina is full of souks or little shops. The shopping experience here is a little less aggressive compared to Marrakech. I personally found the shop owners a little less pushy compared to Marrakech’s souks. I purchased a lot of jewelry here and I would recommend this as an awesome souvenir. They don’t take up a lot of room in your luggage and if you’re shopping for your friends, they will love the unique designs. If you’re continuing your travels, and don’t want to carry large items for extended periods of time, I always go for some silver rings or necklaces. Negotiate good silver prices too but know what to expect to pay. Jewelry can also become a great conversation starter down the road. People always admire a unique ring and especially one that comes with an awesome travel story.
Tanneries
This is where they prepare and dye the leather. There are numerous tanneries in the old part of Fes. They smell really bad but they’re beautiful and something like you probably have never seen before. Although I did not purchase any leather goods, I was happy to see the tannery from the roof of the shop. You will most likely get some mint leaves to help with the smell from the shop owner.
Place Boujloud
Place Boujloud, also known as Place El-Hedim, is a large square located in the heart of Fes, Morocco. The square is named after the famous blue-tiled gate (Bab Boujloud) that stands at one end of the square. Place Boujloud is a popular gathering place for locals and tourists alike, and is surrounded by a variety of shops, restaurants, and other attractions.
One of the most notable landmarks on Place Boujloud is the Dar el Magana, a historic building that once served as a mint and now houses a museum. Visitors to the museum can see a variety of coins, medals, and other artifacts related to the history of Moroccan currency. The square is also home to the Grand Mosque, a beautiful building with intricate architectural details and a large minaret.
In addition to its historical and cultural significance, Place Boujloud is also a great place to shop and eat. The square is surrounded by a number of stalls and shops selling everything from traditional Moroccan crafts and textiles to modern clothing and accessories. There are also several restaurants and cafes in the area, offering a range of local and international cuisine.
Marinid Tombs
The Marinid Tombs are a group of funerary monuments located in Fes and named after the Marinid dynasty, a line of Berber rulers. The tombs are located on a hill overlooking the city and are considered one of the most important historical sites around.
The Tombs consist of a series of mausoleums and graves, many of which are decorated with intricate carvings and ornamentation. Visitors to the Marinid Tombs can explore them, as well as take in the stunning views of the city from the hilltop location. The tombs are open to the public and are a popular destination for tourists and history buffs.
In addition to the tombs themselves, the surrounding area is also worth exploring. The hill is home to a number of small gardens and parks, which offer a tranquil respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are also several small cafes and restaurants in the area, where you can relax and enjoy the views while trying some traditional Moroccan food.
It is only a short taxi ride away unless you’re up for the hike up. Although I stayed a little into the dark right after the sunset, I would not recommend the same.
The Bou Inania Medersa in Fes
This is a beautiful religious building in the city that can be entered by non-Muslim people. In the past, this building was a school. Now it can be visited for its amazing architecture and vibrant colors. I would highly suggest making a stop here to admire the building and learn more about its history.
It is considered one of the most beautiful and well-preserved madrasas in Morocco, and is a popular tourist attraction. It was built in the traditional Moroccan style, with intricate geometric patterns and ornate carvings covering the walls and doors. The madrasa is divided into a series of courtyards and halls, each with its own unique architectural features.
The Bou Inania Madrasa was not only a place of learning but also served as a mosque and a center of community life. It was an important hub of intellectual and religious activity in medieval Fes, and is still an important cultural and educational institution today. The madrasa is open to the public, and guided tours are available.
The Kairaouine Mosque
The Kairaouine Mosque, also known as the Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin, is a historic mosque located in the city of Fes, Morocco. It is one of the oldest and most important mosques in Morocco and is considered a key cultural and religious center in the country.
The Kairaouine Mosque was founded in the 9th century by a woman named Fatima al-Fihri, who was the daughter of a wealthy merchant. The mosque was originally built as a small prayer hall, but over the centuries it has been expanded and renovated several times. Today, it is a large complex with a series of courtyards, halls, and other buildings.
In addition to its religious and cultural importance, the Kairaouine Mosque is also home to one of the oldest universities in the world, the University of al-Qarawiyyin. The university was founded in the 9th century and has a long history of intellectual and scholarly achievement.
Should you visit Fes?
I personally would not visit Fes again but as mentioned above, I know I would have a different experience if I traveled with a male. I went into the country with a very naive mindset wanting to give the city the benefit of the doubt. I quickly realized that other travelers who talked about how difficult travel there was were completely right.
Favorite memory? Despite the challenges, it wasn’t all that bad. In Fes is where I fell into the blanket/rug scam… why? I don’t know. It seemed like a good idea at the moment. Now I own a $100 Moroccan “hand-woven” blanket that lays on my bed to this day. Every time I took at it, I now smile at my stupidity. I low-key love it.
FREE Downloadable Itinerary for your stay
Despite my not-so-hot experience in Fes, if you’re planning to visit this city, please read the other two posts below. Remember that more difficult places simply require more research and hopefully your personal experience will be a lot easier than mine!
Two Days in Fes
Two days is a more feasible and less rushed version of your Fes stay. If you have extra time on the road, this should be a good option for you. You will get to see the major sights of the city as well as new activities on day two. I recommend splurging a little on accommodation and a meal as luxury is more affordable for a common traveler here.
Here is a map for your Morocco travels:
Did you have a similar or totally different experience in Fes? Let me know in the comments below. I would love to hear how to make other people’s travels easier!
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